Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.